Climbing Plants
Posted by Phytopath on Sep 30, 2011
When you have a limited amount of ground space in which to garden, climbing plants are the answer. Vertical gardening can be useful for screening an unpleasant view, whether that view is a neighbour’s ugly shed or an ugly neighbour.
Some gardeners delight in covering an unsightly shed or fence with a beautiful flowering climber. Unfortunately, many visitors to the garden will most likely be thinking “Oh what a beautiful climber covering an ugly fence.”
The best thing to do in this case would be to grow a climber that is not showy – just green with insignificant flowers. That way, the eye will not be drawn to the climber or the fence behind it.
If you want people to be drawn to a particular area in your garden, then a large flowering climber growing over an arch should do the trick. Keep in mind that your choice of plant will have a huge impact on how well the arch will look.
For example, you wouldn’t choose a plant that has a strong upright growth habit because you would end up with bare branches on either side of the arch and all of the foliage sitting at the top of the arch, much like a Bart Simpson hair cut.
A fair amount of thought is also needed when matching the plant to the arch or structure that it will cover. A strong, vigorous growing Bougainvillea or Wisteria would soon crush a light weight, whimsical frame. Something stronger and long lasting would be required to support such plants.
The opposite may be true for climbers that are not at all vigorous. The chosen plant could possibly be a disappointment when it struggles to reach only half way up the climbing frame. In this case, the arch would be the feature instead of the climber.
The shape, size and pattern of the frame, is also important. Plants utilize different methods to make their way up the frame that you have provided. Some twine their stems around a support, some use tendrils as a means to hang on, others use backward facing hooks and yet others seem to hang on for dear life, using sucker pads that can be extremely difficult to remove in the future.
Make sure an arch is much wider than it needs to be. This will allow room for plant growth on the sides without you having to prune the heck out of it, so that you can push the wheelbarrow through.
Maintenance of the climbing frame or support needs some consideration as well. Is the support made from timber? Will it need repainting at some time in the future?
Or is the support made of material that will rust? How will you prevent the climber from collapsing?
Another consideration in plant selection is whether to choose an evergreen or deciduous climber. Both have their merits. The main benefit of using a deciduous climber is; with thought given to the location, it can provide shade in the summer months and allow the sun to shine through during the winter months.
What about growing climbers up a tree?
Although it can look nice in some cases, the short answer is – don’t do it.
Beneath that beautiful display of flowers and foliage there could be lurking some dreaded pest or disease in the tree. Well hidden and un-noticed, it could eventually lead to the demise of the tree supporting the climber.
Climbers also increase the total crown weight of the tree, possibly leading to wind resistance and instability. If the foliage of the climber is dense, it can also lead to reduced photosynthesis in the leaves of the tree, which would weaken the tree and reduce vigour.
Growing climbing plants up living trees also makes it too darn hard to pick the flowers to put into a vase.
Microclimate Modification
Posted by Phytopath on Sep 18, 2011
Would you like to grow a particular plant, but live in an area where it might be difficult?
For example, perhaps you would like to grow a banana plant in an area that would be considered too cold. Or perhaps your chosen plant needs protection from frost. Or how about diverting cool summer breezes toward an open window?
Microclimate modification can be achieved through the use of wind breaks, shade trees, paved areas and water features.
If you would like to create an area in the garden that is warmer than the rest of the garden, create large paved areas and use rock, brick or masonry where possible. Make sure the area also has maximum sun exposure. This would be north facing in the southern hemisphere and south facing in the northern hemisphere.
Planting under evergreen trees can also offer some frost protection for more sensitive plants. Make use of windbreaks planted in the direction of cold prevailing winds.
To create a cooler microclimate, use many shade trees and climbing vines throughout the area. Prune the lower branches from trees and shrubs (called canopy lifting), to allow air to flow freely around the garden. Plant a large shade tree on the southern side of the house (northern side in the northern hemisphere) and open an adjacent 
house window. The transpiration from the foliage of the tree will create an evaporative cooling effect, all
without the use of electricity. Fish ponds and pools can also create a similar effect.
For garden plants that prefer some humidity, create a forest atmosphere by having different canopy heights. Use groundcovers and low growing plants as well as trees, shrubs and climbers. A thick canopy will reduce evaporation and increase transpiration leading to higher relative humidity. This can be utilized for either cool temperate plants like ferns or warm temperate plants like palms.
Low Maintenance Gardens
Posted by Phytopath on Apr 10, 2011
I am sometimes asked “how much time do you spend in the garden?”
Unless I quote the exact number of hours, it is all relative.
Not much time for me (a keen gardener), may be quite a bit of time for a non gardener.
The same could be said for low maintenance gardens.
Most people I speak to, think that deciduous trees are high maintenance: all those leaves you have to rake up.
I believe they are low maintenance.
If planted in a garden bed, instead of the middle of a lawn or next to paving or guttering, their leaves gently fall to the ground returning any nutrients that are left in the falling leaves, back to the soil. Nutrient replenishment at work, with no inputs from the gardener.
An evergreen Australian native that has been planted extensively in backyard gardens in the past is the gum tree.
Eucalyptus sp. is one plant I would never recommend for the suburban garden. It is messy all year round. They drop the operculum (the ‘hat’ part of the flower before it opens), the many stamens, the staminophore (stamina ring), gum nuts, twigs, bark and even large branches.
It is a well known fact that you should never camp underneath a gum tree. Being the ‘Drama Queen’ of the plant world, they are not satisfied with dropping a few twigs – no – they have to drop fully mature, large branches. Large enough to kill a person if you are underneath.
Another piece of advice that is frequently given to seekers of low maintenance gardens is “don’t plant a lawn”
I recall as a child, my father’s idea of a garden was a piece of lawn the size of a postage stamp surrounded by concrete paths (he is not a gardener).
It took him only 20 minutes per week in summer to drag out the lawn mower, start it up and mow his little square, then pack the lawn mower away. In winter the mowing frequency was much less.
Now that, in my opinion is low maintenance. No fertilising, watering only when I was playing under the sprinkler, no coring or thatching, just mowing. Twenty minutes per week in summer, twenty minutes per fortnight in winter. I spend that much time brushing my teeth.
Of course, if your lawn is larger and well manicured, it can take up quite a chunk of your time.
Another myth is that of the gravel garden.
Gravel is not low maintenance. Weeds appear in gravel on a regular basis and have to be hand pulled or sprayed. Birds and children scatter the small gravelly bits around the garden. It sometimes gets stuck in the soles of your shoes and to look good, needs regular raking.
Annuals are also a lot of work, but worth it if you can eat them (vegetables).
Hedges, standard plants, espalier and topiaries also require constant maintenance.
So what is a low maintenance garden?
I would look for plants that have a tight compact shape, that do not need pruning, plants that do not produce a plentiful supply of fruit (like gum trees and lilly pilly), unless you are going to eat the fruit.
Other suggestions are strappy plants like Mondo grass, Liriope, Dietes, Clivea, Bromeliads and Lomandra.
Many conifers are also low maintenance if you have a climate that suits them.
Plants that are not susceptible to pest and disease attack on a regular basis would also be a good choice.
Use mulches and groundcovers and install an automatic irrigation system.
Don’t over-fertilise your plants: it will only make them grow faster and bigger and then you will have to supply more water and nutrients. Over fertilising has the potential to also attract more pests and diseases to the plants.
Make use of mass planting to cover the soil and help prevent weed growth and also look for self cleaning plants. The ones that drop their spent flowers so you don’t have to prune them off.
But after all is said and done, “how much time would you like to spend in the garden?”
For some of us, a whole day is not too much time in the garden.
Pots & Plants
Posted by Phytopath on Feb 26, 2011
Gardeners frequently grow plants in pots or containers for two main reasons; convenience and necessity.
Plants growing in pots are easily moved or transported.
Retail nurseries nationwide can purchase young plants in tubes (from wholesale nurseries), known as tube stock, then pot them up into larger size pots and sell them to the public.
The public can then purchase these plants and transport them home.
The plants can then be planted into a more ornamental pot or container, or planted in the garden, or more frequently, left at the back door to be planted ‘later’.
This typical behaviour leads to a collection (sometimes rather large) of various sized pots in the garden shed. We don’t always dispose of the pots either – just in case we need to use them later.
I don’t know about your garden shed, but in the dark of my shed, behind closed doors, my pots breed.
I’m sure I didn’t have that many pots last season.
Because of the portability of pot plants, they can be moved to a better growing environment through the seasons.
Cold sensitive plants can be moved to a warmer spot or indoors during the winter and sun sensitive plants can be moved to shade during the heat of summer.
Potted plants can also be utilized in office blocks and business premises to create an atmosphere of well being.
These indoor plants need to be rotated or replaced on a regular basis for the health of the plant. Growing plants in pots makes this more convenient for the business responsible for plant hire.
Convenience is also a factor for people who like gardening but are limited to a balcony garden or rental premises. Plants grown in pots are portable and convenient for both of the above situations.
Potted plants are also a great way to make a temporary display of colour or patterns. This is used by retail nurseries to display certain plants that they want to move or sell quickly.
It is also used in garden shows or gardening events where landscapers and garden designers erect a temporary display for the duration of the event.
The other reason people grow plants in pots is necessity.
The first example that comes to mind is pH.
If you live in an area where the soil pH is very high or alkaline, you would have a hard time trying to grow azaleas, rhododendrons and most berries.
The ability to purchase bags of potting mix specifically prepared for these plants, (low pH) would allow you to grow them in pots when otherwise it would be impossible.
Bonsai is another example. Growing trees in small containers allows you to control the growth of the plant.
Large scale commercial growers also recognise the benefits of pot culture to manipulate flowering times of container grown plants.
Temperature, humidity and light can be controlled in the growing environment, so that potted plants are ready for sale at optimum times of the year for profit e.g. Valentine’s Day and Mothers Day.
Some important points to keep in mind when considering growing plants in containers are:-
- The shape or height of the pot
- The material the pot is made of
- Drainage holes (size & number)
- The potting mix or media
In some cases, the shape of the pot may determine if the plant grown in it lives or dies.
Here is an example.
Take two plants that are identical in every way i.e. size, age shape etc.
Place one in a shallow pot and the other in a tall pot.
Potting mix and watering frequency are to be the same.
The plant growing in the shallow pot will suffer from root rot but the plant growing in the taller container will be fine. (Note: the reverse of this will happen if the watering frequency is low i.e. the plant grown in the shallow container or squat pot, will survive, and the plant growing in the tall container may die) 
The reason for this is: the water level of a saturated medium (just watered pot plant) is the same no matter what height or width the container is.
Try this by hanging two bath towels on the clothes line – one horizontal and one vertical.
After a wee while, check the dampness of both bath towels.
The damp area on both towels will be at the same height from the bottom of the towel regardless of which way they were hung.
The material that the pot is made from is also important.
Terracotta pots and unglazed pots dry out quicker in warm climates and black plastic pots hold a lot of heat around the root zone in hot climates.
For plant health it is best to match the plant to the pot, allowing for climatic and micro-climate conditions.
Plants should not be grown in a pot or container just because it ‘looks pretty’.
The third important point for pot growing culture is the medium or soil that is used in the pot.
I will cover this in another blog post.
Recommendation
Posted by Phytopath on Dec 27, 2010
There is no blog post today, just a recommendation to watch a great documentary on YouTube.
Put some time aside, it runs for 93 minutes.
I believe every person who has access to the internet would benefit from watching this program
Just click on the link titled Home (below)
Low cost macro photography
Posted by Phytopath on Nov 28, 2010
Today I have a guest blogger, Rob Fairweather of wilddogphotographics.com, who is quite a dab hand at taking close up photographs of flowers and bugs.
In this post, Rob is talking about a cheap torch he purchased from the hardware store and ended up using it with his camera to take macro shots, instead of using an expensive flash.
Over the past year or so, digital cameras have begun to “come of age”.
Many “Compacts” are beginning to challenge the more expensive DSLRs (Digital Single Lens Reflex) cameras – where specialist functions are involved.
Of course, there’s always the size, weight and convenience aspect of the Compact, but in certain areas, the optics used in the Compacts has unexpected advantages. As the size of the image detector is reduced, the optics can also be made smaller and cheaper – but at the same time, the depth of field of the recorded image increases. (The depth of field is defined as the distance around the focus point where at the intended viewing size, the image is acceptably focussed.) This means that if we want to enlarge an image excessively, then the effective depth of field decreases, because any focussing errors become very noticeable.
One of the biggest problems in macro photography is that as we move closer to the subject, the depth of field decreases dramatically. To increase the depth of field again, we have to reduce the lens aperture (use a higher f stop). This of course reduces the amount of light that the camera sees, and so we have to use a lower shutter speed to compensate. Light levels can drop so far that special electronic flash gear is required! That is – up until now!
A few weeks ago when shopping in our local hardware shop, I noticed some LED torches for sale at around $20. I picked one up, and turned it on – to discover that it had a zoom feature (wide angle to spot), and generated a very intense white light. I bought one there and then.
I’ve been waiting for such a light source for some time. Yesterday I decided to check out it’s suitability for a close-up light source for macro shooting.
I used 3 cameras for my test – a Canon IXUS 860IS (8 Mp slim line), a Canon Powershot G10 (15Mp compact), and a Canon 5D MkII (21Mp DSLR).
The two compacts could focus down to 1 or 2 cm in macro mode, and the SLR to 30 cm with a macro lens fitted. My subject was a bract of flowers measuring about 5cm high on a little succulent. The individual flowers were about 5mm across, and I focussed on one particular flower during each test.
The IXUS lens aperture was fixed at f/2.8, whereas the G10 was shot with the aperture at f/2.8 and also f/8. The 5D was shot at f/2.8 and f/16. Colour rendition with the IXUS needed a little adjustment in Photoshop to match the other two cameras.
Except for the IXUS, I used a tripod to hold the cameras, however the IXUS and G10 would have been quite happy without the tripod, because they were both fitted with image stabilisers.
Settings for each image are as below.
5D_31 f/16, 0.3 seconds - 5D_32 f/2.8, 100th second
G10_33 f/8, 20th second – G10_34 f/2.8, 160th second
IXUS860_21 f/2.8, 500th second.
5D_36 shows the torch and the camera setup while the G10 was photographing the flowers. The depth of field using the 5D for this shot is rather wanting (f.6.3 60th) hand held. I focussed on the camera and figured that the rest was acceptably rendered for this task.
As you can see, the compacts do a much better job with their lensed wide open than the DSLR, and the G10 produces a very acceptable image when stopped down to it’s minimum aperture. It’s lens would have only been about 2cm from the flowers during the shoot. For very small subjects in the garden (bugs etc,) the torch light can be zoomed in to produce a very intense light spot.
Total cost of the lighting setup – about $20 – and you get to find your way home in the dark!
Rob Fairweather www.wilddogphotographics.com
Trompe l’oeil
Posted by Phytopath on Nov 10, 2010
What an interesting name for life-like, art-work.
Artists create three dimensional images on a two dimensional canvas (whatever the canvas might be) which forms the optical illusion.
I remember receiving an email a few years ago called ‘chalk art.’ It was mind blowing.
The artist was creating three dimensional images on the pavement. They were so real that people using the footpath would avoid what appeared to be a hole in the ground where tradesmen were working.
Another email I received showed a picture of a Trompe l’oeil mural painted on a bathroom floor. The floor of the bathroom appeared to be non-existent – you could see the ground beneath, as if looking from a plane. There was even a person falling to the ground.
Would you use the bathroom if that is what you saw when you opened the door? I think a few profanities might escape my mouth before I set foot on the floor.
So what does this have to do with gardening?
Murals are often used in courtyard gardens to create the illusion of space.
If done well, they can trick the eye into believing there is ‘something there’, when in fact it is probably a wall. The ‘something’ could be a water feature, a door or gate into another part of the garden or just more garden.
I am fortunate enough to know a lovely lady who paints Trompe l’oeil for sale. She also holds classes on rare occasions. I look forward to participating in her next one.
Here is some of her work.
Murals by Rose Hill.
Shady Gardens
Posted by Phytopath on Oct 6, 2010
Is shade a problem in your garden?
And exactly what type of shade do you have?
When we talk about shade plants or shady gardens we need to be a little more specific if we are seeking advice.
The type of shade you have will influence the choice of plant to grow in that position.
The garden could be in dappled shade, part shade, full shade, wet shade, dry shade or seasonal shade. Let’s look at each one.
Dappled shade is normally found under large trees with an open or sparse canopy. The leaves block out some of the sunlight but not all of it and as the sun moves through the sky, the shade moves across the ground so that any one plant is not in the shade permanently
Part shade is a place in the garden that receives at least four hours of sunlight everyday but is also in the shade for part of the day.
This could possibly be an east facing direction or a west facing direction. That is, the plant receives either morning or afternoon sun and morning or afternoon shade. This can also happen on a southerly aspect (southern hemisphere) where the garden bed may be in the shade for most of the day but receives late afternoon sun (in summer) depending on your latitude.
Full shade is an area in the garden that does not receive any direct sunlight at all.
This can occur on the southern side of a building (southern hemisphere) between two houses or buildings. Full shade can also occur under the canopy of very dense evergreen trees.
Wet shade as the name suggests, is usually found in areas of full shade which also have heavy clay soil with poor drainage. The soil tends to stay wet, even waterlogged at times because there is little evaporation from the sun. These areas are certainly a challenge for the gardener but there are plants available that will grow in this environment.
Dry shade is extremely challenging when it comes to gardening. These areas often occur under trees with a dense canopy. The foliage blocks out light, dew and rain to the area below it.
Understory plants grown in this environment have to compete for light, water, nutrients and competition from tree roots.
In some situations it is best not to plant in these areas but to lay down some gravel, pavers or plants in pots.
Seasonal shade is often found under deciduous trees, or as mentioned earlier, on the southern side of a house (southern hemisphere) during summer.
Deciduous trees can be used to great advantage, providing winter warmth and summer shade to areas in the garden.
So how can you tell if a plant will grow in the shade?
Most shade loving plants do not have the same appearance as sun lovers do. Sun loving plants often have thick or small leaves, or a waxy or hairy coating.
Their vampire-like shade loving cousins frequently have large leaves that are also thin.
These leaves need to be energy efficient because of the low light levels (intensity and also duration) so some shade loving plants produce leaves that appear purple or reddish.
The purple/red leaves contain chemicals (anthocyanins) that perform the function of back-scattering light, which makes them absorb energy (through light) more efficiently.
Many shade tolerant plants originate from rainforests. The canopy in a rainforest can be very dense and plants found growing on the forest floor have adapted to low light levels.
If your garden has a micro-climate similar to a tropical or sub tropical rainforest, look at plants that naturally grow in those regions (assuming you also have the required amount of water they need).
If you live in an area where the climate is cooler, take a look at the plants that naturally grow in a cool temperate forest.
To create a shady garden, start planting trees NOW.
Many of the shade loving plants also like lots of water and high humidity, so keep the soil well mulched to retain moisture and plant densely to create a humid environment. Perhaps you could also install a fish pond or water feature to help to increase humidity levels.
Here is a short list of some plants that will grow in the shade. But remember to cross reference with soil pH, temperature and drainage.
Cycas revoluta (sago palm)
Nandina domestica (sacred bamboo)
Nephrolepis cordifolia (fishbone fern)
Cordyline spp.
Liriope muscari (liriope)
Platycerium superbum (staghorn)
Dicksonia antarctica (tree fern)
Clivea miniata (clivia)
Camellia spp.
Agapanthus sp.
Monstera deliciosa (fruit salad plant)
Philodendron sp.
Strelitzia reginae (bird of paradise)
Ajuga reptans (bugle)
Brachyscome multifida (cut-leaf daisy)
Bergenia cordifolia (bergenia)
Lomandra longifolia (mat rush)
Hibbertia obtusifolia (Guinea flower)
Dianella tasmanica (flax lily) can be very aggressive
Correa alba (white correa) makes a nice cup of tea
Acanthus mollis (oyster plant) can be weedy
Viola hederacea (native violet) oh cute
Ophiopogon japonicus (mondo grass)
Hedera sp. (ivy)
Lonicera sp. (honeysuckle)
Viburnum tinus (laurustinus)
Assorted Bromeliads
Of course there are many more, but I have to stop somewhere.
Are your plants hormonal?
Posted by Phytopath on May 27, 2010
Grrr...
There are three factors affecting plant growth:
- Signals from the environment
- Nutritional factors
- Hormonal signals
Hormones are chemical substances produced in small amounts in one tissue and transported to another tissue where they have an effect. (Most men of course would proclaim that hormones have a huge effect when they are referring to their partners)
They are chemical messengers which regulate growth.
There are five important hormones which are found in nearly all seed plants and these co-ordinate the growth of the plant as a whole.
Many of the effects of the external environment on development are mediated by the distribution of these hormones within the plant. They are;
- Auxin
- Cytokinins
- Gibberellins
- Abscisic acid
- Ethylene
Auxin was the first plant hormone to be discovered and it is manufactured in shoot tips, embryos, fruit and young leaves. Auxin promotes the elongation of shoot tissue cells. It is also the hormone involved in geotropic responses (curvature) of shoot tips to gravity.
In many plants the presence of auxin in the growing tip of the stem inhibits the growth of lateral buds below the apex. This phenomenon is called apical dominance. Removal of the growing tip, and thus the auxin, removes the inhibiting influence and the lower buds may sprout. That is why ‘pinching out’ the apical bud stimulates bushier growth in many ornamentals.
Application of artificial hormones containing auxin to cuttings will stimulate production of roots.
Development of fruit is stimulated by treatment of the flower with auxin. Treatment prior to pollination of the flower will produce seedless fruit.
Cytokinin stimulates cell division and its presence will stimulate the differentiation of vascular tissue (e.g. xylem). Buds which are inhibited by apical dominance may be ‘released’ by cytokinin. Cytokinin delays the ageing process and senescence in leaves. (I am surprised cosmetic chemists or scientists have not come up with an anti-aging cream containing cytokinin – perhaps because we are not plants)
Gibberellin is an important hormone in stem elongation (no comment here). Many dwarf plants are the result of diminished gibberellin in the stem. It also promotes bolting and rapid elongation of the stem. This occurs naturally in many plants which grow in a rosette form and produce a long flowering stalk. Gibberellin also promotes flowering in some long day plants, and also promotes pollen development.
Abscisic acid (ABA) stimulates the closure of leaf stomata. When a plant is under water stress and begins to wilt, abscisic acid is produced in the leaves, and closure of the stomata occurs quite rapidly in response. Abscisic acid also regulates leaf abscission.
Ethylene is a gas made in small quantities in plant tissue, which triggers the fruit ripening process. It is used to bring about the uniform ripening of bananas and control the flowering in pineapples. A rotten apple produces ethylene gas which causes nearby apples to rot. CO2 storage of apples prevents the ripening effect of ethylene.
So – are your plants hormonal?
Introduction to Eucalyptus
Posted by Phytopath on May 24, 2010
Eucalyptus
Australian forests (what is left of them) are made up of trees, mostly from the genus Eucalyptus.
The word Eucalyptus comes from the Greek Eu, meaning well and kalyptos meaning concealed, which describes the appearance of the developing flower and the fact that it is covered by a cap.
Eucalyptus species have been planted in many parts of the world, sometimes becoming problematic. There are over 500 species of Eucalyptus growing in Australia and prior to seed movement by Europeans only nine species were found growing outside of Australia, most of these occurred in New Guinea.
Four main characteristics are frequently used for identification of Eucalypts (gum trees). They are: bark, flowers, fruit and leaves.
The bark is usually described as smooth or rough. Within the rough category there is further distinction between stringy bark, iron bark, bloodwood, box and fibrous. The smooth barks can be described as having scribbles, flakes or ribbons.
Inflorescence characteristics are identified by the type and arrangement, the number of flowers and the peduncle. With unbranched (axillary and simple) inflorescence, the clusters develop on a single axillary peduncle and with branched (axillary and compound), the clusters occur on two or more peduncles arising from a rhachis. The third and less common type of inflorescence is called terminal and compound where a number of clusters develop in a branched arrangement at the tips of branches.
The peduncle itself can also be used in identifying certain species. They are described as simple or compound, stout or slender and round, elliptical, angular, flattened or strap-like.
Buds are comprised of three parts, the pedicel, hypanthium and operculum. The pedicel is either attached directly to the apex of the peduncle or each bud develops at the top of its own pedicel. The shape of the operculum, also used for identification, is described as beaked, conical, elongated or hemispherical and the length is either long or short.
The fruit is a capsule that is dry and woody, often called a gum nut. Fruit width is either small (narrower than 0.5 cm), medium (0.5 – 1.5 cm) or large (wider than 1.5 cm). The number of valves varies between species and there are the same number of fruit in a cluster as there are flower buds in a cluster.
Flower colour is red, pink, orange, yellow, greenish yellow, cream or white.
Leaves are often similar, only changing in length. The leaves are produced from buds that are not covered by a protective scale. Theses naked buds allow rapid growth and multiple stems unlike some Northern Hemisphere trees that have a protective leaf bud and only produce one set of branches each spring/summer.
The juvenile leaves are often arranged differently along the stem to that of the adult leaves. For example juvenile leaves can be opposite and adult leaves alternate, along the stem. The shape of the juvenile leaves can also be a characteristic of one species.
The leaves have a thick waxy cuticle to help prevent moisture loss and mature leaves hang down in a vertical position so only a small surface area is exposed to the hot midday sun.
One of the adaptations found in Eucalypts is the lignotuber, a special swollen structure at or near the base of the plant. It contains a mass of woody tissue with large food reserves and numerous dormant buds. The trees will sprout from these lignotubers if exposed to fire, drought or hard pruning. The Mallee Eucalypts develop the largest lignotubers and can be found producing many trunks from the same lignotuber.
The Eucalypt or gum tree can be seen by some to be a pest or nuisance but they provide food and shelter for native birds and animals. The hollows in the branches are home for 25% of Australian mammals and a large number of Australian birds.
They also provide shelter on farms and hardwood timber for building. They help prevent soil erosion and decrease soil salinity problems. Their recreational use is often overlooked, providing forests for camping, bird watching, bushwalking and just chilling out.
