A Blog about growing vegetables, fruit, herbs and flowers for enjoyment

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Chemical Alternatives

Posted by Phytopath on Jun 26, 2010

Thanks to the World Wide Web, today’s gardener has access to far more information than gardeners of 50 years ago. I believe today’s gardener is also more aware, when it comes to garden chemicals.

We have choices. And if you choose to try some alternatives when it comes to tackling pest and disease problems, here are some simple solutions. Keep in mind that these solutions probably won’t work as fast as their chemical equivalent and may need several applications rather than one dose. It also does not imply that these recipes are ‘safe’ just because they are home made. Treat them with respect.

 

SOAP SPRAYS

are frequently used for soft bodied insects like aphids. They should only be applied with low pressure because under high pressure, with an atomiser, they can be a health hazard.

Soap sprays can also damage plants and soil when used in excess. Regular use on plants can break down the protective waxy coating on plant leaves, a bit like breaking down the skin on our bodies or the paintwork on cars – not a good practice. Do a test spray first. Try one or two leaves and leave it for a few days to observe the results before spraying the whole plant.

Choose a soap that is made from caustic potash and not caustic soda or use a ‘Pure’ soap. Grate about 60 grams of the soap (with a cheese or vegetable grater), into a nine litre bucket of water, then swish the water until it is frothy. Pour into a watering can and spray on to affected plants.

 

SOAP and BAKING SODA (BiCarb Soda)

can be used as an anti-fungal spray. Try using it against downy mildew, black spot and fungal rusts. Again, be mindful of human and plant protection. Do a spot test (on the plant, not yourself) and cover up, especially the eyes, when using the mixture. Also, do not use on a hot day.

Dissolve about 150 grams of baking soda in the 9 litre bucket of water, and then add the soap (60 grams). Use as described above.

 

 COOKING OIL

is often used to make a white oil solution to treat scale insects. Never use this spray if the temperature rises above 24°C (75°F) and stays there for three or four days after spraying. For some gardeners, that will mean NO spraying during the summer months.

Add one cup of water and two cups of cooking oil to a blender and mix until you get a milky white solution. This is the ‘concentrate’, which is then diluted with more water at the rate of 20 to 70 ml of concentrate per litre of water. This mixture separates out quite quickly so must be used strait away. Do not make any more than you need for an application.

MILK SPRAYS have been used as a chemical alternative for black spot on roses, for – like – forever. Does it work? That depends on who you ask. The milk and water spray has a number of uses, but the main use is, as a fungicide. It is also apparently a good spray for treating mildew on cucurbits.

Mix one part real full cream milk with nine parts water. Some people suggest a ratio of 50/50, equal parts milk and water. Experiment a little and see what works for you. Spray with a watering can or atomised sprayer but remember to always wash the container thoroughly afterward. Off milk just smells – well – off.

MILK and FLOUR  can be mixed together to make a spray against red spider mite, two spotted mite and azalea lace bug. Mix four cups of flour with a quarter cup of milk, pour in to a baking dish, oh, sorry wrong recipe.(My attempt at humour).

Mix four cups of flour with a quarter cup of milk then add mixture to 20 litres of water, stirring constantly until well mixed. Spray on to all surfaces of the plant and repeat every two days until symptoms subside (critters disappear). Wash equipment well.

SUGAR, most people’s addiction, is used as a soil drench to control nematodes. Dissolve two kilograms of sugar (I don’t think the nematodes mind which sort) in ten litres of water. (a great syrup for preserving fruit) and pour over the soil where there is suspected nematode activity. Although this drench works to destroy nematodes, unfortunately it will have the same effect on worms and other soft bodied soil life. Use at your discretion.

SALT is a great weed killer but don’t go there. It is very bad for the soil. Use boiling water instead.

If you have any other gems that can be used in the garden instead of chemicals, let me know.

Winter in my garden

Posted by Phytopath on Jun 21, 2010

I like the heat.

It’s not for everyone but I definitely have more energy when the temperature rises.

During the winter months (although reasonably mild where I live), I might as well be a grizzly bear. Hibernation is very attractive.

Because of my apparent unwillingness to garden outside during winter (unless the sun is shining), not a lot happens or is achieved in my garden, except for the occasional ‘weeding day’.

So today I went for a stroll around my garden (the sun was out) and took some photo’s to share with you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rosemary for Remembrance

Posted by Phytopath on Jun 14, 2010

There was a fatal accident today, about one kilometre from where I work. Although I did not know the man who died, I pondered on his life and actions for today. I am certain that when he left his house this morning, he had no idea that he would not return home for dinner.

This blog post is for all the people who never made it home for dinner.

Rosemary was grown on the graves of ancestors in western parts of Asia, to invoke help and guidance for the living. When we think of rosemary, the word remembrance often pops into our head at the same time.

Rosemary is also associated with friendship and trust and sprigs were traditionally carried at weddings and funerals.

The botanical name for rosemary – Rosmarinus officinalis, is derived from the Latin ros, meaning dew, and marinus, the sea. This refers to observations of rosemary growing near the coast.

The ancient Greeks spoke of rosemary as having a stimulating effect on the mind and aiding memory. Students would wear rosemary sprigs in their hair for this reason and consequently it became known as a symbol of remembrance.

During the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, rosemary branches were burnt indoors as a fumigant against the Black Death. The leaves were also burnt in sick rooms and churches as a substitute for incense.

Rosemary was commonly grown around the Mediterranean region, from the fifteenth to the seventeenth centuries. It was used to freshen the air, make lutes, keep moths away from linen and books, dispel bad dreams, give a pale complexion, make one merry and ward off all manner of evils in the body.

Culpeper also advised smoking the leaves to treat coughs and consumption, and using rosemary ointment to treat ‘benumbed joints’ and finely powdered leaves were also used as sneezing powders (snuffs).

During the nineteenth century, in the United States, rosemary was prescribed as a stimulant, antispasmodic and emmenagogue. The essential oil was mainly used as a perfume for ointments and liniments

Today, rosemary essential oil is still added to liniments and hair care products while leaf infusions are used for their tonic, astringent and diaphoretic principles. It is said to be good for relieving headaches.

In the kitchen, rosemary is usually associated with roast lamb, but can also be used in stews, soups and sauces.

If you happen to live in an area where the climate is similar to a Mediterranean one, rosemary should grow well.

How about making a space in your garden for all who ‘never made it home for dinner’

Pest repellent plants

Posted by Phytopath on Jun 11, 2010

Plants that have the ability to repel pests (whatever that means to you – and no, it doesn’t include your spouse), come in various shapes and sizes.

Plants grown in the garden for pest control have some advantages over commercial sprays. First being, no chemical spray drift onto desirable plants or neighbours gardens.

Not all insects in the garden are pests and some are even beneficial. Many of the insects do little harm and actually feed on other insects that are pests.

Pest repellent plants can mask the scent of targeted plants from invading insects. If you have a favourite plant that is constantly being attacked by insects, try planting some heavily scented plants next to or nearby the vulnerable plant. The attacking insects will not be able to ‘sniff out’ their prey.

Apart from confusing insect pests, some pest repellent plants will actively repel them. Try planting several around the garden or vegetable patch.

You may also like to plant a variety of plants in the garden that attract predators, like ladybirds and lacewings, to help control the bothersome insect pests.

Biodiversity in the garden is a wondrous thing.

Some of these plants are also useful for making sprays, but always be mindful of your actions.

Dogbane (Plectranthus ornatus, Plectranthus caninus) is a strong smelling perennial ground cover, growing to about 15 cm when not in flower and around 30 cm high when in flower. The flowers are a pale lavender colour and occur mostly in autumn. The leaves are fleshy with hairs on the upper surface and they have a very strong odour. The common name comes from its apparent ability to repel dogs, but not all dogs are affected. The plant reputably repels a range of pests in its vicinity. Give the plant a warm protected position away from frost. Once established, it requires very little water.

Cotton lavender (Santolina chamaecyparissus) is another plant used as a pest repellent. Its main use is in repelling moths and silverfish. The plant is a small shrub to around 50 cm high with grey foliage and yellow flowers during summer. The fine leaves are aromatic (and don’t stink like dogbane) and can be dried and placed in sachets to repel moths in linen cupboards and wardrobes. The dried leaves can also be used to repel silver fish. Just scatter them on the bookshelves or place many small sachets behind books. If that does not work, try blending 50 ml of white vinegar with 50 drops of lavender essential oil, 50 drops of peppermint essential oil and 50 drops of citronella essential oil. Place in a 350 ml spray bottle and add 250 ml of water. Shake well and use on a cloth to wipe down bookshelves, once per week.

Marjoram and Oregano, (Origanum spp.) known for their culinary use, can also be used to deter pumpkin beetle from nearby cucurbits. They are also useful in protecting onions from maggot and brassicas from the white cabbage butterfly. Choose a variety that will grow well in your area.

Wormwood, (Artemisia absinthium) has long been used to repel lice on chickens by planting a hedge around the chicken coup. The plant can have a negative effect on nearby plants by inhibiting their growth, so choose their position in the garden carefully. The active ingredient in wormwood is thujone which adversely affects the nervous system. For this reason it is no longer used in the drinks: absinthe, pernod or ricard. It can however, be used to repel aphids, whitefly, bean fly and some caterpillars. The fresh leaves can also be used to repel fleas on your pet, by rubbing them through the animals coat. The leaves can also be dried and powdered and used to repel ants, thrip, moths and flies.

What a plant.

This is just a very short list of pest repellent plants. There are many more to choose from and I am sure you will be able to find some that will grow in your climatic conditions.

Critters – Friend or Foe?

Posted by Phytopath on Jun 8, 2010

Are you constantly annoyed by bothersome pests on your favourite plants and vegetables?

Do you head straight for the spray container, eager to fill it with the latest chemical or organic spray?

Why?

Gardeners have been trying to eradicate pests for as long as they have been gardening. Millions of dollars have been spent on chemicals, helping to increase profits of chemical manufacturers, for what?

The pests seem to re-appear again next season or next year. What about the effect on the food chain?  If you eradicate one pest, even temporarily, you will change the feeding habit of the predator, perhaps even decreasing its numbers, and on it continues.

Have you ever considered welcoming the so called pest and fostering bio-diversity in the garden?

Imagine having an array of butterflies to watch as they dance around your garden, because you didn’t spray the caterpillars. Or an assortment of bugs for children to wonder at, with their different shapes and colours, because you didn’t spray the grubs.

If you have certain vegetables or a favourite plant that is constantly being attacked, look at the growing conditions. Is the plant in the optimal position for sun or shade, drainage and frost, buffering winds, salt spray etc. etc.

If the optimal growing position is not supplied, move the plant, if you can. If the plant or vegetable cannot be moved, think about planting sacrifice plants.

Pests usually seek out the weakest plants first, so if its cabbages (for example) that you are having problems with, plant a couple in the garden where they will not grow at their best. Make sure it is away from your desirable plant, or the vegie patch, and hopefully the majority of the pests will attack the weaker plant rather than the one you are eye-balling for dinner.

Better still; plant some native plants (to your area) that will encourage predators to your garden, to help keep the pesky critters under control.

Do you really need control for twelve months of the year? Some of the pests that visit your garden, may only pose a problem two or three times a year.

Learn tolerance. What is so bad about sharing some of your produce with others? Even if the ‘others’ are perceived pests. Minor damage to a piece of fruit or a vegetable will not affect the taste. Learn to accept small losses, knowing you are creating a diverse habitat in your garden.

Seed or seedling – which is best?

Posted by Phytopath on Jun 4, 2010

Planting seed directly into a vegetable patch is the quickest, easiest and least expensive way to grow vegetables. But what are the downsides to direct sowing?

Local climatic conditions will pay a big part in your decision to direct sow or not. If the soil is too cold or too hot, the seed will not germinate. If the seed is subject to cold and wet conditions, it may rot in the ground before it has a chance to germinate. Seeds planted too deep in the soil will not germinate, or if they do, they will be weak and spindly and probably won’t survive. Birds or ants may take off with the newly planted seed or simply scatter the seed onto the path or some other place where it is unlikely to germinate.

This certainly doesn’t sound easy, does it? The vegetables to grow from seed are the ones that do not like to be transplanted and ones that will germinate and mature within the growing season you have at your location.

Here are some suggestions for vegetables to direct sow in the garden (provided your climate is suitable): beans, beets, carrots, collards, corn, cucumbers, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, okra, peas, peanuts, pumpkins, spinach, squash, turnips and watermelons.

Soil preparation is the key to success for direct sowing of vegetable seed.

Prior to sowing, add organic matter to the soil. It enriches the soil and improves structure and water holding ability. The soil microbes will also appreciate it.

If you plan well ahead, grow a green manure crop over late autumn and winter. Turn this in to the soil before spring planting begins.

Not all seeds are planted at the same depth. As a rule of thumb, seeds are planted at a depth which is twice the diameter of the seed at their largest point.

For very small seed, just press them in to the surface of the soil. Make sure the seeds do not dry out, it may affect germination.

Try not to over-sow, or plant too many seeds. It will make more work for you later, when you have to thin out the seedlings.

Seedlings: Try not to over-sow, or plant too many seeds. It will make more work for you later, when you have to thin out the seedlings.

This may sound ridiculous that I have used the same sentence for both methods of sowing seed, but it is applicable to both methods. I can recall seeing the amazed look on the face of some of my students when their small punnets of seedlings looked more like a forest of grass than a punnet of vegetable seedlings. And yes, I made them prick them all out, for not following the instructions given. They thought more was better.

Seedlings can be started from seed, sown in punnets or pots, or they can be purchased from your local nursery.

To grow vegetable seedlings yourself, you need to make sure that you have the time to nurture them and the space to store them until they are planted in the ground.

If you are a family of one, you might like to consider buying a pot of mixed seedlings from the nursery. This will save you the hassle of buying many different seed packets, only to sow a few seed out of each packet. I mean, really, how many zucchini do you really want? One plant is enough for one person, otherwise you end up cooking, freezing and drying the zucchini, then when you check the plant again, there is another four or more fruit, so you start making zucchini cake, zucchini fritters, zucchini relish…..you get the idea.

If you live in a climate where the growing season is too short for some vegetables to mature from seed, then seedlings are best. If you decide to grow your own from seed, make sure they can cope with transplanting from the container into the ground. Some suggestions are: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, silver beet, lettuce and tomatoes.

Vegetable seedlings that require a little more care are: celery, eggplant, onion and capsicum (peppers). Seed which do not like root disturbance, but may need to be started early in the season, indoors, can be grown individually in containers like empty toilet rolls. Those seed are: beans, corn, cucumber, okra, peas, summer and winter squash and watermelon.

So which is best, seed or seedling?

The best method is the one that suits your gardening style and climate.

Tips for new vegetable gardeners

Posted by Phytopath on Jun 1, 2010

Are you new to vegetable growing? Not sure where to start, but want to save money and the planet? Grow your own vegetables.

It can be nice to think big but when it comes to trying something new, baby steps are best.

Start small, either a small section of garden or purpose built vegetable patch, or even large pots or half wine barrels. You can expand the area for growing vegetables when you have gained some confidence.

Start simple – grow vegetables that are super easy to grow. One of the easiest is radish. If you don’t like radish, still grow some. You will feel good at achieving success, and then feel even better when you can give away home grown produce. Expand the range of vegetables that you grow, when you gain more confidence.

Ask for help, either on-line through forums or social media sites, or in person. Join a local garden club or volunteer your labour to a local community garden. You can definitely learn by getting involved and experiencing hands on activities, especially from keen gardeners.

Look for, or offer yourself in a labour exchange. It is often more fun to garden with another or in a group, so find some friends and organise a working bee in each other’s gardens for a few hours a month.

Watch the path of the sun across your yard throughout the seasons, and then choose an area which receives about six hours of sunlight per day. This will be acceptable for most vegetables.

Make sure the site for your vegetable garden has easy access. The paths need to be wide enough for a wheelbarrow and flat enough for a wheelbarrow. Old blankets, carpet, hessian and sawdust can be used.

Make the vegetable beds narrow. It is not good for your back, to reach too far into a garden bed for planting, weeding and harvesting. It is not good for the soil structure to step on to the vegetable beds. The best width is the distance you can comfortably reach with an outstretched arm, times two, because you can walk around to the other side of the vegetable bed and reach into the bed, opposite of where you just where. If that didn’t make sense, imagine gardening with a friend, both of you opposite each other with the vegetable bed in between. Now, both of you reach toward each other with an outstretched arm, like you are going to shake hands – that is the ideal width of your vegetable bed.

The size of your vegetable patch will be determined by the size of your family. Allow one square metre per person for leafy greens and another two square metres for seasonal vegetables. If you are a family of four, your vegetable patch would measure approximately 12 square metres.

Plant spacing’s can be important. Follow directions on the back of seed packets or ask a friendly gardener at your local nursery or on-line.

Planting in rows is not necessary but convenient. Mix flowers, vegetables and herbs together. It looks good and confuses insect pests.

Good luck in your new venture. Stay tuned for information on crop rotation, companion planting and composting.

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