A Blog about growing vegetables, fruit, herbs and flowers for enjoyment

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Nasturtium

Posted by Phytopath on Aug 25, 2010

Garden nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) elicits different memories for different people.

For me, it brings back childhood memories of outback dunnies. It seemed as though everyone in Australia that had an outside toilet, had a nasturtium plant draped over it.

Was the strong smell of nasturtium leaves supposed to mask the bad smell of raw sewerage? Or was the beauty of the flowers supposed to distract the eye away from the ugliness of an outside corrugated iron box?

Whatever the reason, the memories are fond ones that also bring up associated dunny memories, not appropriate for a gardening blog.

The nasturtium plant is native to South America and was introduced to Spain in the 16^th century.

During the 17^th century the leaves and flowers were a popular ingredient in salads.

Today, the leaves and flowers are still used in salads to add colour and a peppery flavour. The flowers are also used to make beautifully coloured vinegar and the freshly chopped leaves can be used to flavour soft cheese and egg dishes.

The unripe green fruits are often pickled and used as a substitute for capers and the hard ripe seeds can be roasted and ground, to be used as a seasoning.

If pickling the fruit, keep in mind that they contain significant amounts of oxalic acid and may be harmful if eaten in large quantities. Moderation in all things is a good motto.

The plant is fast growing, reaching 3 metres (10ft) in no time. Most gardening books describe it as a trailing annual but in South America it is a perennial and in my garden, it is a short lived perennial. So if you live in a cool temperate region, the plant will behave like an annual but if you live in a warm temperate region the plant may well behave like a short lived perennial.

Nasturtium is hardy to 3°C (37°F) and will ramble along the ground like a ground cover or it will sprawl over a rock or structure if it encounters one. The standard height quoted in books is 3m (10ft) but in my garden the stems are still crawling along the ground at around 5 metres. If you don’t have the room for a ‘regular’ nasturtium, there are dwarf varieties available.

Seed can be sown in spring or late autumn around 13 -16°C (55 – 61°F) and once established it can self seed freely, even becoming weedy in some gardens. Sterile cultivars can be propagated from tip cuttings or basal cuttings taken in spring and summer.

Nasturtium plants prefer to grow in well drained soil that is not too rich in nutrients. Rich soil will encourage leaf growth, while poor or impoverished soil will produce more flowers and fruit. Grow in full sun, or part shade in hot climates.

The almost circular peltate leaves can grow to 18 cm in diameter (wow) and have a radiating pattern of veins i.e. radiating from the point where the petiole joins the leaf.

After rain, beads of water gather on the bright green leaves and can be rolled around and played with – a real delight for children (and me).

The flowers are usually yellow, orange or red, and appear on long to very long peduncles that are attached to the hollow stem. Each flower has five petals and five sepals with the upper sepal lengthened into a spur that contains nectar. They are showy and slightly scented growing to 6 cm (2½”).

Nasturtium is often used as a companion plant to deter whitefly and cucumber beetle. It is also planted at the base of apple trees to deter woolly aphid.

When planting Brassica, grow nasturtium between the rows. The nasturtium leaves contain sulphur heterosides similar to those found in some Brassica plants. This means that insects normally found attacking Brassica plants will also attack the nasturtium, therefore the damage will be spread between the Brassica plants and the nasturtium plants and not the Brassica alone.

In the kitchen and in the medicine chest, the whole plant can be used. Leaves, flowers, buds, fruit and seed are all used.

The plant is a bitter tonic herb that is antiseptic, diuretic and expectorant. It also controls fungal and bacterial infections.

It is used internally for respiratory infections and genito-urinary infections, scurvy and poor skin and hair conditions.

Externally, it has been used to treat baldness (this could make someone rich), minor injuries and acne. Seeds have similar properties and are used in the same way.

If you are feeling adventurous, try stuffing the flowers with a flavoured cream cheese to serve as hors d’oeuvres, or pickle the fruit and use as you would capers.

Pickled nasturtium seeds

50g green nasturtium seeds

25g salt

300ml water

Pickling spice

Malt vinegar

Stir the salt into the water, then add the nasturtium seed.

Leave for 24 hours.

Strain and rinse well in fresh water.

Dry with paper towel and then place into a jar.

Put a muslin bag filled with pickling spice into the jar with the nasturtium seed.

Fill the jar with malt vinegar and seal tightly.

Leave for 3-4 weeks before using.

Head Cold

Posted by Phytopath on Aug 18, 2010

The head cold is still with me (grrr…) and it takes the occasional trip south to visit the chest cavity. Now it’s time to get serious about evicting the offending visitor.

Herbal teas, aromatherapy rubs and steam inhalations are on the menu.

American Indians chewed coneflower root (Echinacea spp.), or made it in to a tea, to treat the early stages of cold and flu.

Echinacea is found in most over the counter herbal preparations for cold and flu. It helps to boost the immune system by increasing levels of properdin in the body (a protein that inhibits virus replication)

The plant is considered an effective detoxicant for the respiratory system as well as the lymphatic and circulatory systems.

The rhizomes are lifted in autumn, and then dried for later use. I can’t grow the plant in my soil and climate so it’s off to the chemist I go.

Garlic, (Allium sativum) is another cold fighting plant. It contains allicin, which is a broad spectrum antibiotic.

Garlic is traditionally used to help prevent infection and used to treat colds, flu, bronchitis and whooping cough.

It is taken raw, or as a syrup or tincture (if you are brave) or in capsules, for those of us that are not so brave, or don’t live a solitary life.

I planted my garlic about a month ago and it’s not ready to harvest yet, so I guess that means a trip to the fruit and vegie shop.

Ginger, (Zingiber officinale) is another cold, cough and flu fighting plant (say that three times) used mainly in Chinese medicine.

The fresh rhizome or root is shredded and then placed in water and simmered for 15 to 20 minutes before being used as a tea.

It contains many antiviral compounds and one chemical in particular, has a specific effect against the rhinovirus.

Other constituents of the rhizome suppress coughing, reduce pain and fever and have a mild sedative effect.

Alas, ginger needs a tropical climate to thrive and I live in a warm temperate climate, so – you guessed it – off to the store I go. Can you see a pattern developing here?

Elderberry, (Sambucus nigra) contains compounds that are active against the flu virus and give relief to aching muscles and fever.
The flowers and berries contain flavonoids and the berries also contain vitamins A and C. (Did I mention raw berries are poisonous?).

The traditional medicinal use of elderberry was internally for colds, influenza, catarrh, sinusitis and fever. (I think this is the one I need). It is also combined with Tilia cordata to treat upper respiratory tract infections.

I do have several Sambucus plants in my garden but, its winter here – and they’re deciduous.

A prepared over the counter, ‘cold and flu’ remedy, sounds like my best option.

Eucalyptus spp. or gum tree leaves, are frequently used in steam inhalations to clear the nose and sinuses. (now these, I can grow).

Eucalyptus also loosens phlegm in the chest and is a great antiseptic, astringent and decongestant. The essential oil can be used if you do not have access to the leaves.

A drop of Eucalyptus essential oil placed on a handkerchief (yes I still use hankies), is great to have in your pocket for the occasional ‘sniff’ to clear the nose.

If making a steam inhalation, place two drops of Eucalyptus essential oil and two drops of rosemary or thyme essential oil in to a bowl or basin of hot water. Place your head over the bowl and cover with a towel to prevent the steam from escaping. Come up for fresh air occasionally.

If your cold is a bit ‘chesty’ you could make an aromatherapy chest and neck rub by combining the essential oils of Eucalyptus – 2 drops, Rosemary – 3 drops, Lemon – 1 drop, with one teaspoon of vegetable or sweet almond oil.

Massage around the chest, neck and sinus area of the face.

I’m feeling better already.

White Horehound

Posted by Phytopath on Aug 12, 2010

It’s near the end of winter here in the southern half of the world and there is the inevitable head cold or two (me included – cough, cough, sneeze, wipe), so I thought it appropriate to do an article on horehound.

White horehound or more correctly Marrubium vulgare, is an aromatic plant that can grow between 20 cm – 60 cm (8” – 24”). The stems are erect, grey-ish in colour, soft and downy when young and becoming woody with age. The leaves are ovate in shape, covered in white hairs with bluntly toothed margins and are arranged opposite each other along the stem. The flowers are small, white and tubular in shape, typical of plants in the Lamiaceae family, and are arranged in whorls in the leaf axils.

Black horehound (Ballota nigra) is a related species and was once used for similar purposes. It is now considered less effective than the herb white horehound.

Marrubium vulgare is native to Eurasia and Northern Africa but has made itself at home in many other countries. In parts of Australia and New Zealand it is under statutory control as a weed.

I find it amusing that a plant can be considered a pest in one location (where I live) and just 30 km away, where I work, herbalists struggle to grow the plant in their cold, wet location.

The plant prefers to grow in very well drained soil with a pH that is neutral to alkaline and in full sun. But, the plants in my garden only receive morning sun and full afternoon shade, and are growing fantastically.

In their native habitat they are found growing on dry grassland, in pastures and along the edges of fields.

White horehound can be propagated from seed sown in spring (do not let it set seed in areas where it may have weed potential), division of the clump or softwood cuttings, also in spring.

The leaves were once used to make beer and also to flavour liqueurs, but it is mostly thought of today when someone mentions sore throat, head cold or the flu.

The leaves or flowering stems can be used fresh or dried and are extremely bitter.

In the 16^th century, several herbalists recommended mixing the bitter leaves with sugar to make syrup for treating wheezing and coughing. The same or similar recipes are still being used today to make horehound toffee (recipe below).

It is thought that white horehound was first used in ancient Egyptian times as a cough remedy.

The plant contains a potent expectorant, diterpene marrubiin. This bitter aromatic herb is not only an expectorant but also an antiseptic that can reduce inflammation and relieve spasms. It can increase the rate of perspiration and stimulate the flow of bile.

It has been used internally to treat bronchitis, catarrh, colds, chest coughs, whooping cough, asthma, liver problems, gall bladder disorders, typhoid fever and palpitations. Also as a gargle for sore throats and combined with sugar to make syrup or candy, also for sore throats.

Externally the leaves have been used for skin eruptions and minor skin injuries.

There is a caution if using this herb – prolonged use may cause high blood pressure. But really, it is sooo bitter that I don’t know why anyone would want to take it for extended periods of time.

Horehound candy  (Shaker recipe)

3 cups boiling water

3 oz horehound leaves

6 cups dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon butter

Steep leaves for 20 minutes and then strain. Discard leaves.

Add sugar, cream of tartar and butter, to the infusion.

Cook to hard boil stage and then add lemon juice.

Pour into buttered pan and score when cooled.

Cut into squares before the candy is completely set.

Wrap individual candies in paper and store in a cool dark place.

Rosemary – Profile

Posted by Phytopath on Jul 24, 2010

Family:          Lamiaceae  (formerly Labiatae)

Genus:             Rosmarinus

species:           officinalis

common name:  rosemary

varieties:  several varieties and cultivars exist with flowers of blue, violet, pink or white and varying leaf length and width.

Origin:  the Mediterranean region.

Plant description:         

evergreen shrub to 1.5m. Young branches are covered with soft downy hairs. Leaves are opposite, linear, to 4cm long with revolute margins, dark green above, grey-green and hairy beneath. Flowers are pale blue, to 7mm long, with a prominent concave upper lip. They are found in few-flowered whorls in short axillary or terminal racemes. The whole herb is characterized by a strong persistent aroma. The fruit are very small spherical nutlets with smooth surfaces.

Propagation:  tip cuttings in early spring or heeled cuttings in summer, autumn and winter. Rosemary can be grown from seed but seedlings are slow growing.

Soil:  well drained, coarse and sandy. Neutral pH.     

Aspect/climate:  full sun

Cultivation:  minimal maintenance. Plants do not transplant well.

Pests & disease:   minimal

Parts used:  leaves and twigs

Harvesting & storage:

Hang freshly cut bunches in a dark, well-aired, warm place for a few days. When the leaves are dry they can be easily stripped off the stems (from the bottom up) and crumbled into small pieces. Sprays of fresh rosemary may be wrapped in foil, sealed in a plastic bag and stored in the freezer for some months. Because rosemary is an evergreen plant it is best harvested and used fresh. Rosemary oil is produced by steam distillation.

Flavour:  strong, pungent, astringent, pine-like, peppery, warming, woody and herby with a lingering camphor-like aftertaste.

Aroma:  pine-like, minty with hints of eucalyptus.

Properties/actions:

antioxidant, astringent, diaphoretic, stomachic, emmenagogue, expectorant, cholagogue and tonic, carminative, rubifacient, antispasmodic, antidepressive, antimicrobial and antibacterial (rosemary oil).

Recommended for:  depression, headaches and muscle spasms.

Weight per tsp (5ml): whole dried cut leaves 1.8g

ground 1.6g

Used in: Italian herbs and seasoned stuffing mixes

Used with:    meat, poultry, fish, eggs, soup, sauce, herb butters, savoury jams and    honey.

complements:     

scones

mashed potato

zucchini & eggplant

soy beans

pork

lamb

duck

pates & game

Traditional use:  

principally as a culinary herb. It was also a favourite strewing herb and also has an association with memory, lover’s fidelity and remembrance. Rosemary can be used externally as a compress, or as a herbal oil for the relief of muscular aches and pains. Rosemary was also used as a hedging plant in knot gardens or other formal situations.

Warning:           

oil of rosemary is not recommended for use by pregnant women.

Rosemary recipes

 Culinary

Mint & Rosemary Stuffing

         225g onions

          2 celery sticks

          225g fresh white or wholemeal breadcrumbs

          30ml mint sauce

          10ml (2tsp) chopped fresh rosemary

          finely grated rind of 1 lemon

          1 egg, beaten

          salt & freshley ground pepper

           Finely chop the onion and celery and soften them in the butter. In a large bowl, mix together the breadcrumbs, mint sauce, rosemary and lemon rind. Stir in the celery and onion. Mix well and bind together with the egg.

Makes enough stuffing for a 4.5kg to 5.4kg turkey.

Cosmetic

Milk & Honey Bath Oil with Rosemary

          2 eggs

          45ml (3tbsp) rosemary oil

          10ml (2tsp) honey

          10ml (2tsp) baby shampoo

          15ml (1tbsp) vodka

          150ml milk

          Beat the eggs and oil together, then add the other ingredients and mix thoroughly. Pour into a clean glass bottle. Add 30-45ml (2-3 tbsp) to the bath and keep the rest chilled, for use within a few days. The addition of a little shampoo makes this a dispersing oil which does not leave a greasy rim around the bath.

Medicinal

Rosemary Tea

          250ml (1cup) water

          1 teaspoon chopped rosemary

          Boil the water and pour it on to the rosemary. Leave to steep for a few minutes, then strain and serve.  Rosemary tea, taken daily for some months, is the best long-term solution for poor circulation.

Rose Pruning Basics

Posted by Phytopath on Jul 16, 2010

In the Southern Hemisphere we are approaching rose pruning time.

Although the flowers are beautiful, I must admit that I am not fond of the plant. You almost have to suit up in knight’s armour, as if going in to battle, just to get close and personal with them.

I do recall many years ago, a series of rose bushes that were bred to be thornless. At the time, I was working in a retail nursery and sales of the new rose were almost nonexistent. The flower shape was good and there was a range of about four colours to choose from.

 Eventually I started asking customers why they were still buying traditional roses instead of the new thornless variety. The answer surprised me. “It is not a rose unless it has thorns” was the standard reply. Well bugger me, I thought. I bet they don’t prune their own rose bushes when planted on masse.

Anyway, If you have a few rose bushes and are new to rose pruning, here are some rose pruning basics.

Hybrid Tea, Floribunda and Bush Roses are the most commonly grown roses here in Australia. The standard procedure for pruning these plants is to first remove any dead wood. Then look for any branches that are crossing each other, which could lead to injury followed by infection. Once these have been located make a decision on which one should be removed.

Your decision may depend on the direction the branch is growing or the size of the branch, or the age of the branch.

The direction needs to be toward the outer part of the bush (i.e. growth pointing toward the outside of the bush) and not toward the centre. The size of the branch ideally should be larger than pencil thickness and young wood should be retained in preference to old wood.

Once the crossing branches have been dealt with, next you remove thin, spindly growth from all over the plant and then remove any growth which is growing into the centre of the plant.

If the plant has any obvious suckers (growth from below the graft) these should be removed but if the rose bush has water shoots (new, strong growth from above the graft) these need to be retained as they will form the future framework of the bush.

All of the above cuts should be made with a sharp tool (secateurs or loppers) and the cuts should be made flush with a stem. Do not leave stubs which could get die back.

The next and final step is to reduce the height of the rose bush. For a light prune you would remove about one third of the height (growth) and cut the stem to an outward facing bud. A light prune will give you more flowers but smaller in size (good for floribunda roses).

A hard prune, means removing about half or 50% of the height (growth) which will give you fewer flowers but larger blooms (good for hybrid tea roses).

Whatever you decide, it is highly unlikely that you will kill the rose bush. They are very forgiving and will still reward you with some beautiful flowers after they have scratched you to pieces first.

Climbing Roses are treated differently. They flower on old wood and these canes should not be cut back or shortened. Instead, one third of the old canes are removed completely at ground level each year after flowering. So if you have six canes growing from the base, you would remove the two oldest. That way, the plant is kept young and full of vigour. Flowering laterals can be shortened to 2 or 3 buds, again after flowering.

Banksia roses are simply thinned after flowering. Easy.

Weeping standard roses, just like the climbing roses, have all of the oldest canes removed from the base, up to 50% of the total number of stems can be removed.

Miniature roses are the easiest to prune. It is a bit like having a number one crew cut; you just shave the lot and leave stubble. This can be done by hand or with hedge shears. If the rose is a grafted one, make sure that the cuts are above the graft.

Chickpea

Posted by Phytopath on Jul 5, 2010

Some friends came to visit me on the weekend and because it was an unexpected visit, I had not bought or baked any nice nibbles to enjoy over a cup of coffee.

But I always make sure to have a packet of water crackers in the pantry and a can of organic chickpeas. It only took ten minutes to caramelise some garlic and add it to the drained chickpeas with a little lemon juice. Then place it all in a blender until it is well blended and presto – a lovely homemade dip to go with the water crackers and coffee.

Of course we all had to have some because I had loaded it with garlic. As long as we all smelt the same, nobody could complain.

So how do you grow chickpeas? In case you would like to make your own hummus or felafel.

Chickpea (Cicer arietinum) is also known as Garbanzo, Gram, Bengal gram, Egyptian pea, Dahl and Chana.

It is an annual plant growing to around 30 cm (1 foot) tall with compound leaves and tiny white or blue tinged flowers. The fruit is a small pod containing one or two seeds, each with a structure or growth that looks like a beak.

The plant prefers to grow in light (sandy), well drained soil that is fertile and enriched with organic matter, in full sun.

Prepare the site by adding organic matter to the soil before planting and then rake the ground to create a fine tilth. Water the area well prior to sowing the seed.

In areas where the climate is similar to the Mediterranean, the seed can be sown in autumn and winter. In warm temperate climates, sow the seed after frosts have passed. In a cool temperate climate, sow the seed in pots, in early spring and keep in a glasshouse until frosts have passed in late spring. If you live in the sub tropics, sow the seed after the wet season has passed.

Broadcast the seed on to the prepared beds and lightly cover with soil. If you prefer to sow the seed in rows, plant them 25 cm apart with 50 cm between rows.

Germination may be helped by soaking the seed for an hour before planting.

Keep the growing area weed free while the young plants are establishing. Once established, the plants are not very demanding of water but do benefit from a good soak just before flowering and again when the peas begin to swell.

The pods should be ready to harvest after four to six months. You will know when the time is right because the leaves and pods will turn brown, but make sure you do not leave it too late because the pods will split and release the peas.

Cut the stems at the base and tie a bundle together to hang upside down in warm, dry place. Once the seeds are dry, store them in air tight containers.

Leave the roots of the plants in the ground after harvest, to supply nitrogen to the soil for the next crop that you intend to plant.

Powdery mildew may be a problem for the plants near the end of their growing season, so treat as you would any other plant that is susceptible to powdery mildew.

Nutritionally, chickpeas are high in protein and contain phosphorous, potassium, iron, calcium, zinc and most B vitamins. They are also low in fat and contain dietary fibre.

The young shoots and leaves are also edible and can be boiled or steamed and added to curries and soups.

Chickpeas are made in to stews and soups throughout Europe and in India, they are boiled, roasted, fried, sprouted, ground into flour (besan) and stewed into dhal.

In Israel and Egypt, the chickpeas are made into flat cakes known as felafel.

There are two main types of chickpea, white – which is really a tan colour and black – which is dark brown in colour.

Dried chickpeas need to be soaked for eight hours or overnight in cold water before use. After soaking they will double in size and then they are ready for use in cooking which will take another hour and a half. I reckon it is easier just to open a can.

To make a quick hummus add two garlic cloves, two teaspoons lemon juice, one table spoon olive oil, and a 400 gram can of drained chickpeas to a food processor or blender. Blend until you get a smooth paste (add some of the liquid from the can of chickpeas if the mix is too dry) and then decant in to a nice bowl. Drizzle a small amount of olive oil over the top and serve with pitta bread or water crackers.

I would post a picture of the finished product but my visitors and I ate it all.

Yummy

Chemical Alternatives

Posted by Phytopath on Jun 26, 2010

Thanks to the World Wide Web, today’s gardener has access to far more information than gardeners of 50 years ago. I believe today’s gardener is also more aware, when it comes to garden chemicals.

We have choices. And if you choose to try some alternatives when it comes to tackling pest and disease problems, here are some simple solutions. Keep in mind that these solutions probably won’t work as fast as their chemical equivalent and may need several applications rather than one dose. It also does not imply that these recipes are ‘safe’ just because they are home made. Treat them with respect.

 

SOAP SPRAYS

are frequently used for soft bodied insects like aphids. They should only be applied with low pressure because under high pressure, with an atomiser, they can be a health hazard.

Soap sprays can also damage plants and soil when used in excess. Regular use on plants can break down the protective waxy coating on plant leaves, a bit like breaking down the skin on our bodies or the paintwork on cars – not a good practice. Do a test spray first. Try one or two leaves and leave it for a few days to observe the results before spraying the whole plant.

Choose a soap that is made from caustic potash and not caustic soda or use a ‘Pure’ soap. Grate about 60 grams of the soap (with a cheese or vegetable grater), into a nine litre bucket of water, then swish the water until it is frothy. Pour into a watering can and spray on to affected plants.

 

SOAP and BAKING SODA (BiCarb Soda)

can be used as an anti-fungal spray. Try using it against downy mildew, black spot and fungal rusts. Again, be mindful of human and plant protection. Do a spot test (on the plant, not yourself) and cover up, especially the eyes, when using the mixture. Also, do not use on a hot day.

Dissolve about 150 grams of baking soda in the 9 litre bucket of water, and then add the soap (60 grams). Use as described above.

 

 COOKING OIL

is often used to make a white oil solution to treat scale insects. Never use this spray if the temperature rises above 24°C (75°F) and stays there for three or four days after spraying. For some gardeners, that will mean NO spraying during the summer months.

Add one cup of water and two cups of cooking oil to a blender and mix until you get a milky white solution. This is the ‘concentrate’, which is then diluted with more water at the rate of 20 to 70 ml of concentrate per litre of water. This mixture separates out quite quickly so must be used strait away. Do not make any more than you need for an application.

MILK SPRAYS have been used as a chemical alternative for black spot on roses, for – like – forever. Does it work? That depends on who you ask. The milk and water spray has a number of uses, but the main use is, as a fungicide. It is also apparently a good spray for treating mildew on cucurbits.

Mix one part real full cream milk with nine parts water. Some people suggest a ratio of 50/50, equal parts milk and water. Experiment a little and see what works for you. Spray with a watering can or atomised sprayer but remember to always wash the container thoroughly afterward. Off milk just smells – well – off.

MILK and FLOUR  can be mixed together to make a spray against red spider mite, two spotted mite and azalea lace bug. Mix four cups of flour with a quarter cup of milk, pour in to a baking dish, oh, sorry wrong recipe.(My attempt at humour).

Mix four cups of flour with a quarter cup of milk then add mixture to 20 litres of water, stirring constantly until well mixed. Spray on to all surfaces of the plant and repeat every two days until symptoms subside (critters disappear). Wash equipment well.

SUGAR, most people’s addiction, is used as a soil drench to control nematodes. Dissolve two kilograms of sugar (I don’t think the nematodes mind which sort) in ten litres of water. (a great syrup for preserving fruit) and pour over the soil where there is suspected nematode activity. Although this drench works to destroy nematodes, unfortunately it will have the same effect on worms and other soft bodied soil life. Use at your discretion.

SALT is a great weed killer but don’t go there. It is very bad for the soil. Use boiling water instead.

If you have any other gems that can be used in the garden instead of chemicals, let me know.

Winter in my garden

Posted by Phytopath on Jun 21, 2010

I like the heat.

It’s not for everyone but I definitely have more energy when the temperature rises.

During the winter months (although reasonably mild where I live), I might as well be a grizzly bear. Hibernation is very attractive.

Because of my apparent unwillingness to garden outside during winter (unless the sun is shining), not a lot happens or is achieved in my garden, except for the occasional ‘weeding day’.

So today I went for a stroll around my garden (the sun was out) and took some photo’s to share with you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rosemary for Remembrance

Posted by Phytopath on Jun 14, 2010

There was a fatal accident today, about one kilometre from where I work. Although I did not know the man who died, I pondered on his life and actions for today. I am certain that when he left his house this morning, he had no idea that he would not return home for dinner.

This blog post is for all the people who never made it home for dinner.

Rosemary was grown on the graves of ancestors in western parts of Asia, to invoke help and guidance for the living. When we think of rosemary, the word remembrance often pops into our head at the same time.

Rosemary is also associated with friendship and trust and sprigs were traditionally carried at weddings and funerals.

The botanical name for rosemary – Rosmarinus officinalis, is derived from the Latin ros, meaning dew, and marinus, the sea. This refers to observations of rosemary growing near the coast.

The ancient Greeks spoke of rosemary as having a stimulating effect on the mind and aiding memory. Students would wear rosemary sprigs in their hair for this reason and consequently it became known as a symbol of remembrance.

During the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, rosemary branches were burnt indoors as a fumigant against the Black Death. The leaves were also burnt in sick rooms and churches as a substitute for incense.

Rosemary was commonly grown around the Mediterranean region, from the fifteenth to the seventeenth centuries. It was used to freshen the air, make lutes, keep moths away from linen and books, dispel bad dreams, give a pale complexion, make one merry and ward off all manner of evils in the body.

Culpeper also advised smoking the leaves to treat coughs and consumption, and using rosemary ointment to treat ‘benumbed joints’ and finely powdered leaves were also used as sneezing powders (snuffs).

During the nineteenth century, in the United States, rosemary was prescribed as a stimulant, antispasmodic and emmenagogue. The essential oil was mainly used as a perfume for ointments and liniments

Today, rosemary essential oil is still added to liniments and hair care products while leaf infusions are used for their tonic, astringent and diaphoretic principles. It is said to be good for relieving headaches.

In the kitchen, rosemary is usually associated with roast lamb, but can also be used in stews, soups and sauces.

If you happen to live in an area where the climate is similar to a Mediterranean one, rosemary should grow well.

How about making a space in your garden for all who ‘never made it home for dinner’

Pest repellent plants

Posted by Phytopath on Jun 11, 2010

Plants that have the ability to repel pests (whatever that means to you – and no, it doesn’t include your spouse), come in various shapes and sizes.

Plants grown in the garden for pest control have some advantages over commercial sprays. First being, no chemical spray drift onto desirable plants or neighbours gardens.

Not all insects in the garden are pests and some are even beneficial. Many of the insects do little harm and actually feed on other insects that are pests.

Pest repellent plants can mask the scent of targeted plants from invading insects. If you have a favourite plant that is constantly being attacked by insects, try planting some heavily scented plants next to or nearby the vulnerable plant. The attacking insects will not be able to ‘sniff out’ their prey.

Apart from confusing insect pests, some pest repellent plants will actively repel them. Try planting several around the garden or vegetable patch.

You may also like to plant a variety of plants in the garden that attract predators, like ladybirds and lacewings, to help control the bothersome insect pests.

Biodiversity in the garden is a wondrous thing.

Some of these plants are also useful for making sprays, but always be mindful of your actions.

Dogbane (Plectranthus ornatus, Plectranthus caninus) is a strong smelling perennial ground cover, growing to about 15 cm when not in flower and around 30 cm high when in flower. The flowers are a pale lavender colour and occur mostly in autumn. The leaves are fleshy with hairs on the upper surface and they have a very strong odour. The common name comes from its apparent ability to repel dogs, but not all dogs are affected. The plant reputably repels a range of pests in its vicinity. Give the plant a warm protected position away from frost. Once established, it requires very little water.

Cotton lavender (Santolina chamaecyparissus) is another plant used as a pest repellent. Its main use is in repelling moths and silverfish. The plant is a small shrub to around 50 cm high with grey foliage and yellow flowers during summer. The fine leaves are aromatic (and don’t stink like dogbane) and can be dried and placed in sachets to repel moths in linen cupboards and wardrobes. The dried leaves can also be used to repel silver fish. Just scatter them on the bookshelves or place many small sachets behind books. If that does not work, try blending 50 ml of white vinegar with 50 drops of lavender essential oil, 50 drops of peppermint essential oil and 50 drops of citronella essential oil. Place in a 350 ml spray bottle and add 250 ml of water. Shake well and use on a cloth to wipe down bookshelves, once per week.

Marjoram and Oregano, (Origanum spp.) known for their culinary use, can also be used to deter pumpkin beetle from nearby cucurbits. They are also useful in protecting onions from maggot and brassicas from the white cabbage butterfly. Choose a variety that will grow well in your area.

Wormwood, (Artemisia absinthium) has long been used to repel lice on chickens by planting a hedge around the chicken coup. The plant can have a negative effect on nearby plants by inhibiting their growth, so choose their position in the garden carefully. The active ingredient in wormwood is thujone which adversely affects the nervous system. For this reason it is no longer used in the drinks: absinthe, pernod or ricard. It can however, be used to repel aphids, whitefly, bean fly and some caterpillars. The fresh leaves can also be used to repel fleas on your pet, by rubbing them through the animals coat. The leaves can also be dried and powdered and used to repel ants, thrip, moths and flies.

What a plant.

This is just a very short list of pest repellent plants. There are many more to choose from and I am sure you will be able to find some that will grow in your climatic conditions.

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